when it comes to understanding garments and what separates a "bulk made" product from a "tailor made" product, I believe that the most significant difference lies in how a garment is engineered.
garments that are made in a slower way, each panel individually cut from the cloth, sewn step by step by one pair of hands, following the paper cut pattern for each and every size, it's just the complete opposite of bulk production.
most people will easily understand that slow vs. fast, man vs. machine, scissors vs. lasers, are all elements that create a garment in a very different way.
beyond the obvious, comes the lesser known.
on this lesser known, a short study on the magnificent motivmfg. gilet jacket:
motivmfg.'s gilet jacket is a relatively new design for them, developed by master tailor Daniel Gu, the co-founder of motivmfg., and based in Beijing.
for STORE DU NORD, it is the first season showing this specific style by motivmfg.
in all my years working with Daniel, I have never been disappointed by his designs and work. it is perhaps one of the most unique studios we work with, as they excel at every level of the making. the pattern, the cloth, the construction, the dyeing, the details and most of all, how it drapes on the body.
the gilet jacket takes its design inspiration from 1930s workwear vests which were commonly worn in France and Germany, and originally made with a button closure.
made from a Japanese wool-linen crepe, this lofty summer fabric has an amazing handle and flow on the body.
in the pattern design done by Daniel, the original button construction has been replaced by a zipper to give it a completely different look from the original without losing its historical reference.
what excites me most in the gilet jacket, is the very specific funnel neck construction.
a funnel neck construction is a high, structured collar that rises up straight from the neckline, similar in shape to a funnel. this type of design creates a very clean, minimal silhouette.
in this design by motivmfg., the collar and shoulder seamlessly join in one elongated line, which shows such a refined work of tailoring that it immediately elevates the overall design.
now, when it comes to enjoying a garment in full, details such as the fit block on the shoulder and how the sleeves hold are never to be underestimated.
despite the gilet jacket having a slightly tailored waistline, the shoulder is cut with ample space along the armhole and on the shoulder yoke itself. perhaps you've noticed with some "bulk made" jackets that this is often a critical point that not always sits comfortably and starts pushing your shoulder down, which then creates fatigue when wearing. studios such as motivmfg. focus heavily on the anatomical shape when they draft their patterns, ensuring that key areas such as the shoulder will sit as intended.
this applies to the sleeve as well, which follows the line of the arm perfectly without any restraint. cut longer than usual, the sleeve cuff can be opened up in full to create a playful style in wear.
of course there's a lot more to a very well made garment than just the pattern, the shape and how it is made.
in my own views, as also how I focus my buying, the cloth is the 2nd key element that makes or breaks a garment.
all too often I see makers and brands applying various type of fabrics to the same pattern. what I've learned from all my interactions with Daniel of motivmfg. is that it just doesn't work that way.
not every fabric goes with every pattern design. there are too many variables at play, whether it is seam construction, how it is supposed to drape, how it wears.
I feel that many designers tend to forget that, although maybe more on the mass production side than on the studio made side.
what's interesting about the gilet jacket, is that it actually allows a wide variety of fabrics and fabric weights without killing the cut.
motivmfg. has made this jacket in denim, but also a soft leather and in the wool-linen crepe fabric we have at STORE DU NORD.
this specific wool-linen fabric is developed by renowned Japanese mill NIKKE, one of Japan's premier wool fabric mills who've been around since 1896.
made using a worsted wool, which are combed long staple wool fibers, in a high-twist yarn, the wool is then interwoven with linen, creating a light yet structured fabric ideal for suiting and specific garments such as the gilet jacket.
the fabric is then washed, creating a subtle crinkled, crepe effect which amplifies the beautiful drape of the cloth.
overall I would say that the gilet jacket is one of my season favorites this spring/summer of 2026, a style of jacket that can be easily dressed up or dressed down.
from a garment engineering perspective, this gilet jacket (and all of motivmfg.'s work) ticks all the boxes when looking for a tailored yet relaxed cut and impeccable construction.