perhaps regarded as cottle's most artistic work, the leaf vein zen jacket.
admired for the hand-embroidery detailing, resembling the veins of a plant leaf, and the variety in natural dyes (done by hand) it comes in.
the version currently available at STORE DU NORD is done in cottle's signature natural indigo + deadstock indigo dye. slowly dyed, by hand, experimenting with textures.
what triggers me personally, is the form. the way this jacket has been cut and put together is quite unique. much of this uniqueness has to do with the sleeve construction: referencing the kimono pattern technique, it shows a fairly flat, yet 3-dimensional structure but, it has a special surprise: part of the sleeve comes together as a 2-piece cut cloth flowing into a curved shoulder panel without the traditional set-in shoulder. and wears almost the same as the more common raglan sleeve you often find in outerwear, but with the freedom of a kimono sleeve.
the drape this creates on the wearer is unparalleled. it is smooth, it flows, it holds structure and it oozes comfort.
when I look at garments, my main focus is always: material and construction technique. craft and cloth.
it goes without doubt that the work of husband + wife team Toshiaki and Yukari Watanabe shares those exact same values.
each garment of cottle is always cut and constructed by one and the same person. just one pair of hands that makes your garment from start to finish.
I believe this amplifies the feel of the garment, the form it takes and how you wear it.
in my view, a garment should not feel too heavily structured. it needs to hold shape, but not wear you down.
it should have a natural flow that compliments your body and you as a wearer.
a garment well-made will do that to you.
it forms you. it forms on you.